Not surprisingly, San Antonio has good Tex-Mex food in all price ranges. Many visitors head straight for the Mexican restaurants on the River Walk, but, charming as it is to eat alfresco beside the river, don't be seduced to such an extent that you never venture above ground. There are many good places downtown and the floor of the Rivercenter Mall is packed with assorted fast-food stalls (head straight for Ninfa's Express ).

Boudro's 421 E Commerce St tel 210/224-8484. One of the best places on the River Walk; look for the tasty, unusual entrees (i.e. quail) and don't miss the prickly pear margaritas.

Casa Rio 430 E Commerce St tel 210/225-6718. The oldest, most established restaurant on the River Walk, offering cheap but excellent Mexican food: a huge "deluxe dinner" costs around $7.

El Mirador 722 S St Mary's St tel 210/225-9444. Wonderful Mexican breakfasts and lunches for under $5, and pricier Southwestern cuisine in the evening. Specialties include xocetl (chicken broth) and azteca (spicy tomato) soups. Closed Sun and Aug.

The Guenther House 205 E Guenther St tel 210/227-1061. Delicious cookies and cakes in a cool green flour mill-cum-museum in the King William District. Good breakfasts and lunches, too.

Mi Tierra 218 Produce Row tel 210/225-1262. Expansive 24-hour joint serving superb, inexpensive Tex-Mex. In a bustling old Market Square building.

Paesano's 111 W Crockett St tel 210/227-2782. Lively Italian restaurant on the River Walk, near the Hard Rock Café . The shrimp paesano is delectable.

Rudy's BBQ 24152 I-10 tel 210/698-2141. Fabulous BBQ on the way out of town, well worth making the exit off the interstate.

Zuni Grill 511 River Walk tel 210/227-0864. Creative Southwestern fare in one of the most stylish River Walk restaurants. Main courses around $14.